Lo- fi Lisbon

Saudade = podstępne słowo w języku portugalskim oznaczające jazdę prawie pustym tramwajem nr 28 przez pół Lizbony do uroczego małego parku Estrela; kawiarnię w tymże parku, w której pewnego dnia puścili całą płytę The Suburbs, Arcade Fire; litry cholernie dobrej kawy Sical; zielone wino i oliwki spożywane na każdym metrze kwadratowym Lizbony; minimum dwa pastel de nata dziennie; próbowanie nowych kombinacji tych skandalicznie drogich lodów z Amorino – odkryte przypadkiem – była to jedyna czynna po północy lodziarnia (najlepsza kombinacja smaków: jogurt, gorzka czekolada i jagody); filmy na tarasie ( Big Fish, Blancanieves, Stoker, Moonrise Kingdom, dwa sezony Twin Peaks).

shades of cool

Lo-fi Lisbon mini guide
  • Slow down.
  • Don’t be a tourist, make friends.
  • Try green wine and olives by the riverside. Watch the sunset, listen to cool music sipping from See me by the river bar.
  • Picnic in a park. My favourite is Jardim da Estrela. In the middle you will find a bar where you can order your another um café. When I was there last year, they used to play my favourite Arcade Fire record - The Suburbs
  • The nights are warm. Rent a flat with a terrace. Invite your friends, buy green wine from Pingo Doce, chatt and listen to your favourite songs with Lisbon lights around you.
  • The base of your food pyramide will be made of pastel de nata.
  • or bolo de chocolate – probably 'the best chocolate cake in the world' from Santini or little street stalk (esplanada) on Avenida de la Libertad.
  • Your holiday soundtrack should include some bossa nova and fado classics.
  • Try some really expensive port vine.
  • For the best  ice creams go to Amorino ( my fav mix - dark chocolate, blueberry and yogurt), compare them with famous gelati from Santini.
  • Go to music festivals, like Optimus Alive.
  • On Saturday morning cach the tram 28 from Martim Moniz square and go to Feira da Ladra flea market. Generally speaking, they have shit everywhere, but you can find some treasures like vintage blouses for just 2 euros, a bizzare fado vinyl collection or loads of vintage postcards.
  • Take a crappy ferry to cross the Tejo and discover the other side of the city. You will find yourself back in the 70s. Turn right and walk along the riverside. You will pass several family run resteurants, but continue walking untill you reach a tiny lane. Sit there and enjoy the view. Wait untill the sunset, then head back to el Farol for a delicious grilled octopus.

  • On Sundays I used to an art gallery. I'm keen on contemporary art so I visited MACBA and Foundacio Cauloste Gulbenkian more than once. Surrounded by gardens and parks they seem to be ideal spots to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon.
  • In the evening go to Martim Moniz square, try some delicious street food from all over the world and enjoy some good music.There is a DJ tent and the setlist is very diverse – from electro/idm/techno minimal to African music, latino, bossa nova and rock classics.You can dance!
  • Miradouro Sao Pedro de Alcantra at night is a magical place. Sit on the bank and watch the city lights. If you are lucky, there will be a DJ. 

For um café:
  • See me by the river – sip wine on a lounger with the view of the Ponte 25 de Abril. There is always some good music, you may hear Drive soundtrack or Grizzly Bear latest album.
  • Noobai café (Santa Catarina)
  • Pois Cafe
  • Decadente  
  • Royale cafe
  • Esplanada on Largo do Carmo just in front of the enterance to Convento do Carmo 
  • Pasteleria Sao Roque – Rua da Rosa / Rua Dom Pedro V corner
  • Esplanadas on Avenida de la Libertat 

The best pastel de nata in Lisbon:
  • Pasteleria Cristal - hidden gem near Jardim da Estrela 
  • Pasteleria Belem
  • Confeiteria National - Praca da Figueira 
  • Pasteleria Sao Roque – Rua da Rosa / Rua Dom Pedro V corner – 19th century bakery
Day trips:
  • Sintra - when in Sintra visit eerie Quinta da Regaleira. It feels like in Rivendell there. The labirynth and the Well makes me think of Pan’s Labirynth or Lara Croft. Go to the library and explore the tunnels. Don't forget a torch. When you have more time go to whimsical Palacio da Pena and Monserat – difficult to reach by bus, but you can always hitch hike a surf car. For um café go to Piriquita or Cafe Saudade and try extremely sweet travesserio. 
  • Evora - I haven't been there but they have a skull chapel, yay!
  • Obidos - climb it's walls and you will feel like in Winterfell.
  • Rent a car and venture along the coastline : Seisembra, Ericeira. A piece of advice: check if your GPS charger works unless you want to use your tongue as a guide.
  • Cabo da Roca: Somewhere out there the world must have an end. To reach the world's end take a bus from Cascais.
Travesserios in Café Piriquita, Sintra 
Ericeira: white & blue surf paradise

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